"Sabka Malik Ek"- God is One

It must have been Sai's grace that we could plan our pilgrimage and have his darshans. We had been to Mumbai before, but this time we could get a chance to see other parts of Maharashtra. We drove by the side of the beautiful mountain range getting acquainted with some of the marathi culture through the semi-urban and rural markets in between our journey from Mumbai to Shirdi, Shani Shingnapur, Nasik and Trayambkeshwar. The historical monuments, temples and pilgrims gave a combined pleasure and experience of the ancient architecture, faith and religion. History, mythology and spiritualism all start unfolding in front of us with streaks of belief to strengthen it.

It was in late December where Northern part of India starts getting quite chilly with temperatures going down to about 40-50 deg F. While in the west, where we were heading, mostly one can do away with sweaters. Temperature takes a dip only in early mornings or late evenings. From Mumbai Airport we hired a cab straight to Shirdi, breaking our journey only at a midway resort to have our meals and stretch our legs. Shirdi is a place where stay should never be problem with so many hotels, resorts or lodging in and around there. Our place of lodging was quite convenient and comfortable-the Sai Baba International Hotel. The biggest advantage was that it is right in front of the temple. We could cover the entire shirdi dham- the temple/samadhi sthal, chhavdi and dwarkamayi at ease with a night break in between at the hotel. We were lucky to get the darshan on a thursday evening. Thursdays are extremely crowded as there are more number of devotees to pay visit, and also there is a 'Palki Procession' (palanquin) from Chhavdi to the main temple. It was a beautiful and spellbinding sight, the devotees, the drum beats, the dance, the procession which truly makes the moments worthwhile; taking you away from self for a while and making you forget any of the pinches. The only pinch there though was that there are no separate queue/ pass service for old/physically not-so-fit people. And of course if you are in split groups forget that you can contact each other in the premises. You have to keep in mind that cellphones are not permitted inside and the booths in the premises permit only local calls. So better to fix up a point of meeting back. By 10 PM the darshans close and the grill doors of Dwarkamai also close. So we decided there, the next morning. With the peace and pleasure of mind we retired to bed after digging into the south indian food (faster service as compared to if one orders north indian).

Next morning, took a chance to visit the temple again. There were queues for all the places. A little time consuming but well managed. Dwarkamai dhuni and Chavadi are specially interesting to visit as Baba spent a lot of his lifetime there. Dhuni is all time ablaze and one likes its warmth. Devotees collect 'vibhuti' as baba's blessing. Devotees offer sweets and sanguine red roses to Baba, which are available around the entrance gates. We could cover all the darshans comfortably in about 2 and half hours. Jai Sai Nath!

After feeding (sorta brunch) ourselves, we checked out from the Hotel and headed straight to Shani Shingnapur (probably a four hour drive from Shirdi). There is a common area for parking and where all the male devotees are supposed to wear nothing but a piece of a saffron clothing (unstitched of course). Take a shower and then only proceed for Puja. Females can accompany and get the darshan from a distance but males are only supposed to do the offerings. Going by hearsay probably one feels that it is a small temple with the deity 'Shani' represented by a standing vertical piece of rock. But the temple is huge; and all the devotees following a code of conduct, makes it all quite spectacular and interesting experience. Code of Conduct- yes for sure! Saturn is the planet of strict discipline and adherence.


Time to move to the city of vineyards of India- Nasik! (hoping that we are a little forgiven by lord Saturn now! ;). However, maintaining to be in our lines we quenched our thirst with the pure nectar of sugarcanes. I could still swirl my tongue around my lips and feel its freshness and sweetness. The best part is that it is all extra virgin, to be squeezed out in front of you with the traditional bull-mill. Surprisingly there were no flies around. Such a neat place with no filth or dirt- totally natural and hygienic!

Last day of our trip- and we were in the lap of the river Godavari; commonly referred as Ganga by the localities there. About 30 kms away from Nashik, there is Trayambkeswar- shiva temple with one of his twelve swayumbhoo (self-emerged) jyotirlingas. There are two tales about the place to be called as Trayabkeshwar (or Triyambkeswar)- one that the Jyotirling has three pinds (parts) to represent the three deities- Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh. The other, that the temple was built by King Trimbak. Whatever it is, the temple carved in black stone weathered for over about 400 years is a beautiful architectural marvel! There is a never-ending queue here again, so it’s better if one calls a Pundit for Puja. We performed a Rudri paath, got the darshans and then just immersed ourselves into the ancient beauty withstanding centuries and all the changing and modern times.

Kushavarta is pond close to the Trayambkeshwar temple. There are again various legends for the place but the belief is to take a dip in the holy water. Moving on from there we went to see other places in and around Panchvati (Nashik). There is a Kala Ram temple. The other not-to-miss temple is Sita Gufa (caves where Sita and Ram spent their time of exile and did Shiva worship). The cave's small size (diameter) depth, twists and turns is quite exciting! It was nice to be at the banks of Godavari, except the scorching Sun above and the reducing levels of the river. A very small drive from there and there is Panchvati Kutir (now a temple) where Sita and Ram spent their exile time. Closeby is Lakshman Temple where they say, Lakshman (Ram's brother) had cut Shoorpnakha's (Demon King Ravan's sister) nose (nashika) who had come to charm both the princes to marry her. That's why the name Nashik!! It's may be hard to believe what hindu myhtology says, but when ancient history opens up so many chapters in front of you, one gets to think and keep going up with the continual faith.

Pandavleni, a worthwhile experience to see.. What stands in front of you is a big mountain rock with about tweleve big and small caves made in it. Each one beautifully carved from inside and the exterior of entrance. Unfortunately there is not much written about the place anywhere and no one to tell! Unlike, what generally people may relate to, they were not the caves where Pandavs spent their exile but the caves were built by a King Pandu to spread the Buddha culture. All the carvings in the caves are mighty big Buddha sculptures mostly. We could capture the sunset by the side of the mountains and the valley; had fun hearing the echoing voices… and soon we were back on the plains. If someone advises you to miss Pandavleni for some other attraction and talks about smell etc. there, take the advise as WRONG! It is totally a fun place or at least to break the monotony of darshans.

On the way back to our hotel (Panchvati) we decided to visit the famous Muktidham temple. Well, nice huge temple with all deities and Gods residing their in the white marbles. Good to catch hindu religion (mostly) at a glance!

What one should not miss to bundle from Nashik are- canejuice, grapes, figs, raisins and of course the famous chiwda (beaten rice snack).

It was a sumptuous journey, but did raise the appetite for the Alloras!

Important Links:
www.nashik.com
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nashik_District
www.travel-library.com/hotels/asia/india/nashik/
www.shirdihotels.net